Monday, 23 September 2013

Monday's Trick Challenge: Put Your Toys Away

I posted on my Facebook group Dog Gone Good Training that I was looking for some new tricks to teach my bored dogs. I was hoping for something easy like "wave" or "sit up" but instead Crissy B. had to come up with Put Your Toys Away. She's right, I didn't say it couldn't be challenging!

As I progress in training I will post each step of the trick, and at the end I'll put it all together in a nice little instructional video which I will post here. Keep checking back here or on our Facebook page for progress and instructions on teaching this fairly complex behavior.

Monday, 16 September 2013

Introdiction to Dog Agility

Dog Agility is a fast paced, fun and action packed sport that more and more dog lovers and owners alike are partaking in. I use to trial Coal for a short period of time through the Agility Association of Canada (AAC), but not for very long. We only ever did agility purely for fun, and I wasn't all that interested in titles and ribbons for Coal. The few trials we entered were a great learning experience, although I'd imagine the world of Agility has changed since then; it's been about 7 years since I stepped food on a trial floor!

However, I still enjoy participating and training my dogs in agility in our back yard, and they enjoy it too! A lot of my equipment has been broken or lost over the years, so we just have jumps and a tunnel to play with. In my experience, that's all you need to get a quick little work out for you and your dog anyway!

 What is a Dog Agility Course?

The course is made up of several pieces of equipment you must successfully maneuver your dog through, over and under in a timely manner and without faults.

 There are several different types of equipment;

Tunnels - Open-ended and closed-ended tunnels. Open-ended tunnels may be moved and positioned into different shapes; straight, C-shaped, or S-shaped are commonly seen.

Contacts - Large obstacles the dog must cross or balance on that consist of a "yellow contact zone". Dogs must have at least two front paws on most of the contact obstacles to "clear" the obstacle. Common contacts are: A-Frame, Dog Walk, Teeter-Totter (AKA: See-Saw) and Cross-Over.

Weave Poles - 6 to 12 poles are commonly seen. Dog must enter on the right between the first and second poles, and weave between the poles. Missing poles equals a non-completion penalty.

Veterans and Specials classes are different heights
Jumps - Jumps come in the most variation of all the obstacles. Standard jumps consist of two bases that hold up the PVC poles the dog must jump over. Jump heights are based on the dogs height at the shoulders. Dogs must jump between the "wings" and over the top bar in the direction designated by the judge in order to clear the obstacle. The different types of jumps (also known as "hurdles") are; Standard Singles (one bar), Wings (wider stand so handler must work farther from their dog), Standard Doubles (two parallel bars), Spread (ascending jump, jump height and length), and Tire. 

Coal's AAC card. You must first register your dog with an Agility Club that sanctions the trial you wish to enter.

Stationary (Tables) - Also known as the "Pause Table" or "Pause Box", this is a table raised above the ground or a box outlining a space on the ground that the dog must sit or lay down on or in for a count of usually 5 (by the judge). The table is a great place for you to catch your breath and your bearings! 

Types of Classes and Courses:

Each game/course can be run in Starters, Advanced and Masters.

 There are many different ways in which an agility course can be set up and ran. 

Standard - A course designed of most or all obstacles. The goal is the best time and clear score on the course. A dog must achieve three qualifying scores under at least two different judges in the Starters Standard Class to be awarded the Agility Dog of Canada (ADC) title. The Starters Standard is the perfect place for newbies to start!

Jumpers - A course designed of mostly jumps and tunnels. Obstacles required are 8 jumps, 1 tire jump, 1 spread or broad jump, 1 double jump, and 1 flexible and/or 1 collapsible tunnel. This is also an excellent class to begin with if you are just starting trialing. 

Gamblers - This game demonstrates the handler's strategy and the dog's ability to work at a distance from the handler. The object of the game is to accumulate as many points as possible during the opening sequence and successfully complete the gamble. Dogs must complete obstacles successfully and in a timely manner. Dogs may attempt obstacles as many times as desired, but only 2 successful attempts may be awarded points. 

 Snooker - This game demonstrates the handler and dog's versatility as they work together against the clock. The object of the game is to accumulate as many points as possible in the opening and closing sequences within the allotted time. Each obstacle is designated a number which is it's points value. The handler and dog team must complete the obstacles successfully in the prescribed order by the judge.

Team Relay - Open to all dogs eligible to compete in other AAC events. Courses follow the design, rules and regulations as defined for the Masters Standard Class (please see AAC Rules and Regulations for details). A minimum of 12 obstacles shall be used with each dog on the team, performing at least 10 obstacles and no more than 12 obstacles. Each dog is required to perform at least 1 contact and a minimum of 10 weave poles. Each team consists of two dogs and two different handlers. Team Relay is a great way to enjoy agility with friends and the object of the game is to demonstrate team spirit, strategy and sportsmanship.

baby Coal! First time on the Teeter

Start Training!

Most communities offer some type of Agility training classes these days, and if they don't you can learn to teach your dog at home! All you need is a somewhat medium-large back yard and the right equipment. Equipment can either be purchased or built (at a fairly low cost!).

If you're training at home, I recommend using equipment that is similar or the same guidelines specified by the club or association you wish to compete in. If your equipment you are training on is of different measurements it may confuse your dog and result in an accident on course! Injury on the course can happen when dogs slip or bail off large equipment. Make sure your dog is healthy and in good shape before you begin training! Consult your veterinarian if you are unsure.

Training should start young and slowly. Introduce the dog to the equipment and basic obedience (Sit, Down, Stay/Wait, and Heel are common commands your dog should know before you begin agility training). Allow your dog to investigate each piece of equipment before attempting to navigate it. Dogs should NOT be training in full jump height and puppies should not attempt full jump height until their growth plates are fused. Jumping a dog before this time can result in permanent injury. Please consult your veterinarian if your dog is under 2 years old and you wish to begin agility training.

The Jumps are often the easiest obstacle to train and one of the most common (as they are used to connect different obstacles together). So I would recommend starting there!

Agility Association of Canada
AAC Official Rulebook
Your First AAC Trial

Monday, 19 August 2013

Linkin: The Best Worst Dog I've Had Chapter 1

August 2007 Linkin became a member of our home. He was the first dog I'd ever taken in on my own, all other dogs the final decision had ultimately been up to my parents. He was my first dog that was wholey mine.

My sister told me that a coworker of hers was looking to rehome his young dog. I'd been looking for a young dog to take to Canada West Canine Centre with me, and this young pup was in my own neighborhood; in fact - it was Pippin himself! I'd told Pam I would steal him. I meant it when I said it, even though I had no idea months later the family would decide to rehome him.

I picked up Pippin late at night, it was past 11pm and I was returning from a party. A friend came with me, as he knew the family better than I did. When I saw Pippin he was tied on a rope that he'd obviously chewed threw at least 5 times and they'd re-knotted the rope back together. The other end of the rope, which was now only about 4 or 5 feet long, was attached to a dog house that was unusable because Pippin had chewed it so badly it had completely imploded onto itself. He was jumping up and down as if his back legs were actually pogo sticks. I couldn't take my eyes off him. A knot formed in my stomach. I could barely listen to the woman telling me about what type of food he ate as she tried to give me a bag of no name dog food from the grocery store. "No thanks," I insisted, "I already have food for him."

"At least he doesn't pee on people when he jumps anymore," one of them had said.

"What kind of dog is he?" I asked.

"Labrador Retriever and Boxer," the man replied.

I looked Pippin up and down as he jumped.

He looked like a German Shepherd to me, "and German Shepherd?" I asked.

"Oh no, there's no Shepherd in there, just Lab and Boxer," he answered.

I decided from then on I'd tell people he was a German Shepherd and Boxer cross.

Pippin wouldn't sit still long enough to get a leash on him, I ended up walking him home on the ratty rope he was attached to. The family said their goodbyes, and I began on my short journey home. Pippin gagged at the end of the rope and dragged me all the way. What had I gotten myself into? I kept thinking.

Once home, I let Pippin loose to "explore" his new home. I told him he could go anywhere he wanted. Back and forth he ran from one end of our mobile home to the other. I tried to take photos of him but they all turned out as brown and black blur. He seemed incapable of stopping to even take a breath. He had to sniff everything in sight and he wanted to do it all at once!

I looked at the time, it was nearly midnight by this point and I had to work the next morning. What was I going to do? I felt bad locking him up in a kennel with so much pent up energy. Had he ever even been in a kennel before? I wasn't sure, but found it doubtful.

"Okay, lets take you for a walk," I decided. I wasn't sure how he'd handle on a leash, but judging by how well he did on a rope, I didn't have high hopes. I decided I'd cut up some cheese, the one thing no dog can seem to resist, and bring some along to try and work on his leash manners. After all, working a dogs brain is almost as good as working his body too!

I went to the kitchen and pulled the block of cheese out of the fridge and set it on the counter. I turned around to grab a knife to cut it with and when I turned back around there was Pippin with his front paws up on the counter gobbling down the block of cheese with great frenzy.

"Hey!" I exclaimed, motionless for a moment in shock, "bad dog!" I shooed him off and cut off the end he'd chewed. That would be the chunk I took with me, which later I'd learn I could never have too many treats with me on a walk with Linkin.

I leashed him up and off we went. The plan was to work on leash manners, but it soon became apparent that would have to wait. This young dog had so much pent up energy he couldn't focus for half a second. Instead of a nice walk with leash manner training, we went for a jog. For 4 blocks.

I'm not a big fan of jogging, so this was a pretty big accomplishment. "Maybe you'll help me get in shape," I told him. His tongue draped from the side of his mouth which curled up into a big doggy grin.

Back home, the hour was ticking by and I was ready for bed. I put Pippin in the spare room in a crate. He had a nice cozy blanket, he'd had a drink after our jog, and I was hoping would be tired enough to go to sleep.

I laid awake for three hours that first night, listening to him cry. I refused to give in. This was a puppy who had a rough start in life, he was neglected through no fault of his own, just neglectful and ignorant owners. The rest of his life would be better. I vowed to train him properly, to make him into a great dog.

After 3 and a half hours he finally had gone to sleep, and I too, drifted into a wonderful land of sleep.

My boyfriend came home and nudged me awake. "Where's the puppy?" he asked, excited about our new addition.

"he's in the spare room," I grumbled and rolled back over to get back to sleep.

As my brain woke a little more I realized what just happened. "don't-" I began, but was too late. The cries and barks started again when Jared went to see the new puppy.

It was another 2 hours of barking and crying before anyone got any sleep.

Linkin: The Best Worst Dog I've Had
Chapter 1

Monday, 5 August 2013

Linkin: The Best Worst Dog I've Had

Last night some friends were sitting around the fire with us in our back yard. We were all laughing and telling our best "worst dog" stories. You know, every dog owner has at least one. The most frustrating, hurtful, embarrassing and revolting things your dog has done.

After a while, I realized that nearly all of my stories were about one dog! Linkin Bark, the best worst dog I've ever had. Linkin found me, really. I was on the look out for a young dog to take with me to Salmon Arm where I was attending the full courses offered at Canada West Canine Centre. I'd met Linkin previously, "Pippin" was his name then. He was this puppy, roughly 4 or 5 months old and completely full of piss and vinegar. A friend of mine brought his girlfriend of the time over to our place, which was a trailer located in the same trailer park as this girl's home. Pippin followed Karl and Pam to our place and raced from one end of the addition and back around and around. He wiggled into my lap, licked my face repeatedly before dashing away as fast as he'd appeared. I laughed, completely amazed with his total zest for life and told Pam, "one day I'm going to steal your dog."

"Go ahead," Pam replied, "everyone hates him. He's so annoying!"

I watched Pippin and Coal, my 4 year old labrador retreiver, play in the addition to the trailer. Pippin dashed across the room, jumped on Coal with his front paws and pushed with all his little puppy might and barked at him. Coal didn't even have enough time to react before Pippin was gone, running what I later called "Zoomies" back and forth and around and around. "You watch, I'm going to steal him. He's amazing." I replied.

I'd never seen a dog so purely joyful. He was clearly ecstatic to be out and playing with another dog and visiting with other people. He was clearly a dog who's potential was too big for his owners.

to be continued...


Please note: Names have been changed to protect identities.
Please keep in mind this is kind of a "rough draft". 
I'll be writing Linkin's story bit by bit on the blog, so read it here first!

Linkin: The Best Worst Dog I've Had
 Chapter 1

Friday, 19 April 2013

FriendlyDogCollars: An Invertivew with Jon Saville


An Invertivew with Jon Saville

When I first came across FriendlyDogCollars it was a photo through Facebook without any logo or direction as to where you could get the product. It wasn't until after our dog Unit attacked another dog and cost us $300.00 in vet bills and a lot of heartache for the owners and dog that I set out to find who made this amazing product and how I could get it. It wasn't long before my search brought me to an Amazon page which told me what company made these products. As I looked at all the different colour coded warning labels available in collars, harnesses and leashes I decided two things; first I would need to order Unit an orange NO DOGS harness and leash, second I needed to spread the word.

FriendlyDogCollars is a very unique company based out of the UK and created by Jonathon Saville. This company began in 2007 with the idea in mind that not all dogs (or people) can be judged by their looks.

Jon owned many dogs over the years, but it wasn't until he got Roxy, a Staffordshire Bull Terrier, that the idea for FriendlyDogCollars came to him. When Jon walked Roxy down the street people would cross the street to avoid them. Jon was a 235lbs bodybuilder with a shaved head and tattoos and the dog on the end of his leash looked like a bodybuilder of the canine version. However, in the 9 years Jon owned Roxy she'd never hurt a person or other dog, and Jon himself was a friendly person! Even when Jon's mother walked the dog people would avoid them. Later, Jon's sister had arrived with a little pink dog dress as a joke. They put it on Roxy and Jon's sister took her for a walk. The response they received just from a little pink dress was a complete 180 from when people crossed the street to avoid Jon and Roxy. Now people were approaching them and wanting to pet Roxy, people saw her completely differently just from one little piece of apparel.

From that, an idea was born. The first  "FRIENDLY" green dog collar was made. They made 30 at first and they quickly sold. Before they knew it 100 were sold. Next the red CAUTION collar was created and another 100 of those were sold. Soon after there was enough demand to create something for dogs who were great with people but not good with other dogs,  the orange NO DOGS collar was created and all 100 sold. "Those three are the main system and one day will be known no matter which language and country," says Jon, "All other items were made as enquirers came."

When it first began FriendlyDogCollars were selling slowly. 5 one week and everyone would cheer and celebrate those five sold, and then a week would go by without any sold before another 5 would leave the shelves. They did not advertise or try to talk any businesses into selling their products. Slowly but surely word began to spread about this wonderful product. "When we were hitting 50 a week we knew this was needed and we fully registered all products, Trademarked them and Patented them in all countries that were applicable." says Jon. "With over 300 stores and charities now stocking and using the products, and over 2,000 a week leaving the office, it has quickly become a whirlwind project and we still do not advertise. Every week at least 3-15 new individuals and businesses add our products to their range. With no advertising and the fact we do not approach anyone for business, the products must be good!"

They're more than just a good product, they're a life saver. "With over 7 million dog bites worldwide each year, uncountable dog on dog attacks which are avoidable, by letting others know a dogs' nature/temperament in advance allows others to take the necessary steps to avoid a dog accident, or even help a dog in need." Jon stated. "Even if we save one child from a dog bite this is all worth it."

The message is bright and clear.

Red CAUTION - DO NOT APPROACH! Under any circumstances, even if you think you are Ceasar Milan! The dog owner has taken the necessary steps to let you know about the dogs past, children and adults steer clear and give space.

Orange NO DOGS - Not good with other dogs, if you see an orange item in the distance ona  dog, do not let your dog off of their leash yet as you could avoid a possible dog on dog attack and save yourself money from veternary or legal fees!

Green FRIENDLY - Known as friendly to all. Just because a dog looks aggressive, don't assume they all are as your dramatisation of a fearful looking dog ahead can actually bring attention to you from a dog like that. So relax if you see a green friendly item is on the dog as the dog owner has owned that dog many years and knows what that dogs personality is.

Yellow NERVOUS - This dog is nervous and may be unpredictable when approached, so ask or seek the owner before any interaction.

"These are the main 4 that we all need to know," Jon says, "The others are self explanatory like, DEAF DOG, BLIND DOG, ADOPT ME, TRAINING and WORKING."

FriendlyDogCollars also offers their lowest wholesale price and give no minimum order amount to dog rescues and charities. They also always add extra items for free to these groups! "Many ask for donations of the items for prizes at events and even donations for some dogs really in need, which we obviously give to help." he says. "Every month we donate to a different charity of a percentage of our profits, and have promotion codes that allow charity customers to purchase from our website."

Every month FriendlyDogCollars also donates to a different charity a percentage of their profits. "...and have promotion codes that allow charity customers to purchase from our website and we donate 10% to that desired charity of the sales from our site that used that code. Once we have time, we will be actively helping charities and shelters manually. We have also helped some dogs through our contacts." Jon explained. 

FriendlyDogCollars isn't contained to just the UK, they also have distributors in other countires such as Australia. They also have over 70 stockists in USA and Canada alone (no sole distributors though). 

Many non-English speaking countries such as Spain, Dubai and UAE (plus 14 surrounding countries), Singapore, Finland, Sweden, Norway, Estonia and Russia, Brazil, France and Germany all want to sell the FriendlyDogCollar products even though they are all in English.  While they have been most popular in UK, Australia, Canada and USA they sell daily to over 30 countries worldwide. 

As mentioned above, the products are also available through Amazon approached FriendlyDogCollars to sell their products, and so did Nestlé Purina and DisneyWorld. "All have approached us as we do not approach anyone or any business to stock our products, we let everyone come to us and don't pressure them at all. The products speak for themselves in volume and are a huge success."

Jon says they are always working on new products to add to their company's stores. Most recently was the royal blue WORKING series for owners with working dogs who want others to know they should not be disturbed.

Occasionally they get requests for custom made products. 99% of the requests is to change the colour of a product (for example; making a blue leash that says FRIENDLY). However, the products work so well because they are colour based; they can be understood regardless language or literacy skills.  Because of this, FriendlyDogCollars stands by that they will not do these types of custom orders and will keep the colour code system they have already in place.

A similar idea was launched that uses a yellow ribbon tied to a leash to let others know to stay away from the dog. In an earlier correspondence with Jon I'd mentioned the yellow ribbon project and he explained to me that, "the yellow ribbon project has had many faults, as if you wear a yellow ribbon also means you support the troops in Afghanistan. Due to this many children and adults have been approaching dogs with yellow ribbons to pat them as they think they are in support! Less than 1% of the population know the yellow ribbon meaning for dogs, whereas more than 4% know it for the troops." After I learned this I knew that FriendlyDogCollars was an idea that needed to be shared. Every person needs to learn and implement the colour coded system.

"We came up with the idea, but it is all of you who help contribute to forward this to everybody else in the world and make it possible to become what it has today and what it will become in the near future." Jon said, "Yes it is just a collar with words on it, but it means so much to be able to PREVENT the unknown from happening just by wearing a simple collar."

If I'd ordered the orange NO DOGS harness for Unit sooner, perhaps it would have saved a dog from becoming injured and would have saved us $300 in vet bills too!

For more information about FriendlyDogCollars and how you can purchase a product for your dog visit

Monday, 8 April 2013

Monday's Trick Challenge: Wear a Muzzle

Wearing a muzzle isn't exactly a trick, but it can be a handy tool to have and even handier if your dog is comfortable wearing it! Some dogs may require to wear a muzzle at one point or another in their lives for a variety of reasons. Not all dogs are outright aggressive who wear muzzles. Some may not have been properly exposed to certain scenarios during the important socialization periods of their lives, and as a precaution a muzzle can keep everyone safe. Two main scenarios where a muzzle may need to be used is at the groomers or vet clinic. Both require strangers to handle your dog in situations that may be scary or even painful for your dog! It's important that I stress; a dog wearing a muzzle is not a BAD dog! When an owner chooses to muzzle their dog in a situation that they are not sure how their dog may react or they may suspect their dog may bite out of fear or pain, that owner is a responsible owner who looks out for the safety of others as well as their dog.

The type of muzzle your dog wears is also important. It should fit correctly so the dog cannot remove it by pawing or rubbing it against surfaces. It should not impeach breathing, drinking or panting. Unfortunately many muzzles strap the mouth shut. There are muzzles called 'basket muzzles' available which are just as they sound; a basket that covers the entire muzzle but leaves enough room for the dog to still be able to breath, pant, yawn and drink. Basket muzzles do have a pricier tag on them but are worth the investment. The better quality the muzzle the longer it will last and the safer it will be!

Unit recently attacked another dog and needs to be muzzled when out in public now. When I first got Unit she needed to be muzzled during grooming. She'd never been exposed to being groomed and was already a few years old so bath time was no easy! She was muzzled several times before I felt comfortable enough to remove it. Watch your dogs body language, they will tell you when they're ready! She hadn't worn a muzzle since then so when I went to put it on she did the usual, avoiding it, and then trying to remove it (which she was successful at). I had to pop another hole in the strap to fit it for her better, and started teaching her to accept the muzzle in the same way I'd taught Linkin, the original owner of the muzzle.

I apologize in advance for some of the poor quality photos.
I should have waited until I had someone help to take the photos!

If you are using a basket muzzle, hold a small
treat  through the end of the muzzle
Step 1: use a high reward treat. Sit on the floor with your dog in a distraction-free environment.
 If you're using a basket muzzle this method is much easier. Hold the treat through the end of the muzzle and encourage your dog to get the treat by putting their nose into the muzzle. The basket muzzle as enough space for movement within it that this is fairly easy. It does require a bit of coordination but with some practice is pretty easy to do!

If your dog is clicker trained, this is a good time to use it. "Click" each time your dog sticks his/her nose in the muzzle.

Do not attach the muzzle yet, we are just teaching the dog to put his/her nose in the muzzle. Praise and repeat.

Unit did not like to put her nose into the muzzle
and required a bit of direction the first few times.

Step 2:
Try holding the muzzle on your dogs nose for a bit longer (this will probably be about 1-3 seconds). If your dog fights it he/she is not ready to wear it yet.

TROUBLESHOOT: if your dog continues to try to get the treat around the muzzle instead of through it you may need to gently hold their nose and place the muzzle on the nose. Once the dog smells the treat she will quickly gobble it up (if she's anything like Unit!). Praise praise praise!! Your dog likely does not understand what you want her to do, and putting her nose in the muzzle does not seem natural to her. By gently showing her where to put her nose, you are teaching her what behavior you are expecting.

Step 3: Attach the muzzle. This should only be done when your dog is more comfortable with the muzzle. It may take a couple hours, a few days or a few weeks. It all depends on your dog!

If your dog paws at the muzzle, allow it. You want to make sure the muzzle isn't too big and thus your dog is able to remove it, and it's also just a part of your dog getting use to it. She will most likely try to remove it, but if you've done a lot of solid foundation training of teaching your dog to associate the muzzle with a positive (the food reward) she should feel comfortable enough that her attempt to remove the muzzle does not last long.

If your muzzle is too big you may need to poke a new hole in the strap like I did.

When fit correctly, you should be able to pull the muzzle down a bit but not off the nose completely. You can see from the picture to the left that Unit's muzzle is very close to being too big for her. It does not, however, come right off her nose. Some muzzles come with a strap that goes from the top of the muzzle, between the eyes, over the forehead and attaches at the back of the head. This will keep the muzzle from pulling off the nose. Many muzzles for shorter nosed dogs are designed this way (or for dogs with oddly shaped heads such as the English Bull Terrier).

If your muzzle slips off you will need to adjust the straps, poke new holes for the straps or possibly even invest in a smaller muzzle.

Remember to praise a lot and be patient! You are taking away your dogs most important defense and many dogs will feel extremely uncomfortable about this. Taking your time to associate the muzzle with a positive is very important.

The basket muzzle pictured here was roughly $90.00 CAD. they are much pricier than the cheap nylon muzzles that clamp the dogs mouth shut, but in my opinion, are well worth the investment!

Wednesday, 27 February 2013

Why You Should Never "Rub His Nose in It"

Why You Should Never "Rub His Nose in It"

Rubbing your dog's nose in his poop or pee left on the floor for you to find is a very old school method of dog training that should have died out years ago. Unfortunately, usually do to misinformation and ignorance, this method is still used by many people to this day.

It was thought that if you rubbed your dogs nose in his poop he would learn quickly that pooping in the house is wrong. However, dogs live in the moment. They do not think back to what they've done and they do not think ahead to the future. When you find a present left for your by your dog and yell at, spank or rub his nose in it, your dog isn't learning not to poop in the house! Instead what he's learning is that you are a scary, unpredictable animal that he should fear because when he is least expecting it you're going to hurt him and rub his nose in his poop!

Even if you do not rub your dogs nose in it, punishing him after the fact will create the same result. Your dog does not remember pooping in the house, and does NOT make the connection between your punishment and eliminating in the house.

So what if you catch your dog in the act of eliminating in the house? Can you rub his nose in it then? Absolutely NOT! Rubbing your dogs nose in his poop is disgusting and cruel. Take a moment to think about how you were probably potty trained. No where did it probably contain this type of training behavior, and if it did it would be considered child abuse! You do not have to rub your dogs nose in his poop to get your point across!

So what can you do instead?
Here are some basic tips you should always remember when house training a dog!

  1. Never rub his nose in it!
  2. Never punish your dog if you have not caught him in the act!
  3. Keep in mind it is a learning experience; it will take some time for your dog to get the concept but just because it's taking time does not mean he will never learn!
  4. When caught in the act, tell your dog in a firm voice "NO" and quickly bring him outdoors. Encourage him to eliminate outdoors. If he does, PRAISE!
  6. SUPERVISE: Supervising your dog is the best way to house train. If you do not catch him in the act you can NOT correct the bad behavior and reinforce the good behavior!
  7.  Keep your dog in a crate if you are unable to supervise. Most dogs will not eliminate in their crate, and this will teach him how to hold his bladder for longer.
  8. Small dogs have smaller bladders than large dogs! A large small dog cannot hold it for as long and therefore will need to go out more often than a small dog.
  9. Be consistent. This is very important! If you change your training or do not consistently watch, correct and reinforce your dog it will take twice as long to train him!
  10. Be patient! Patience is one of the most important tools you can arm yourself with when training your dog.